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Sustainability: Ikea, Patagonia and Unilever put to the test

Corentin Juin_VF
Corentin Juin
PhD student in Innovation Management at Ecole Polytechnique (IP Paris)
Valentine Georget_VF
Valentine Georget
Lecturer in Management at the Université Côte d’Azur and Researcher at GREDEG
Thierry Rayna
Thierry Rayna
Researcher at the CNRS i³-CRG* laboratory and Professor at Ecole Polytechnique (IP Paris)
Key takeaways
  • According to the UN, sustainability is defined as meeting current needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.
  • Current tools do not allow us to determine whether sustainability is integrated into a company's strategic decision-making or whether it is added afterwards.
  • The “Sustainability Mirror” methodology classifies companies' sustainable development actions as guided, embodied, or anchored.
  • Companies can therefore be informed about their sustainability practices, relationships with the ecosystem, environmental impact, and innovation.
  • This method identifies opportunities to expand companies' actions to generate positive results for society, the environment, and shareholders.

Sus­tain­ab­il­ity has become ubi­quit­ous in cor­por­ate dis­course. It is defined by the UN’s 1987 Brundtland Com­mis­sion as “meet­ing present needs without com­prom­ising future gen­er­a­tions’ abil­ity to meet theirs”. Yet trans­lat­ing this prin­ciple into authen­t­ic busi­ness prac­tice remains elu­sive. Most com­pan­ies grapple with com­pet­ing pres­sures: share­hold­er expect­a­tions for profit max­im­isa­tion, entrenched oper­a­tion­al sys­tems, and the struc­tur­al con­straints of scal­ing sus­tain­able prac­tices across com­plex glob­al operations.

Tra­di­tion­al meas­ure­ment tools like ESG rat­ings and the triple bot­tom line frame­work cap­ture import­ant aspects of cor­por­ate envir­on­ment­al per­form­ance, but they fall short of reveal­ing wheth­er sus­tain­ab­il­ity is genu­inely embed­ded in stra­tegic decision-mak­ing or merely layered on as an after­thought. These met­rics often serve extern­al stakeholders—such as, investors and regulators—rather than provid­ing action­able insights for intern­al transformation.

Introducing the sustainability mirror framework

To address this gap, we developed the Sus­tain­ab­il­ity Mir­ror Frame­work, a dia­gnost­ic tool that cat­egor­ises cor­por­ate sus­tain­ab­il­ity actions into three dis­tinct types based on their under­ly­ing motiv­a­tions and beneficiaries:

  • Steered Actions: Ini­ti­at­ives that primar­ily bene­fit soci­ety or the envir­on­ment with min­im­al dir­ect busi­ness returns. These rep­res­ent genu­ine altru­ism but may be vul­ner­able to cost-cut­ting dur­ing eco­nom­ic pressures.
  • Embod­ied Actions: Strategies that sim­ul­tan­eously advance envir­on­ment­al or social goals while strength­en­ing busi­ness per­form­ance. These cre­ate self-rein­for­cing cycles, where doing good becomes integ­ral to com­pet­it­ive advantage.
  • Anchored Actions: Activ­it­ies pur­sued pre­dom­in­antly for busi­ness bene­fit, even when framed in sus­tain­ab­il­ity lan­guage. While not inher­ently prob­lem­at­ic, high con­cen­tra­tions of anchored actions may sig­nal greenwashing.

The frame­work eval­u­ates com­pan­ies across four crit­ic­al dimen­sions: sus­tain­ab­il­ity prac­tices, eco­sys­tem rela­tion­ships (with sup­pli­ers, com­munit­ies, and part­ners), envir­on­ment­al impact, and innov­a­tion approaches. We applied this frame­work to ana­lyse Patago­nia, IKEA, and Unilever—the top three com­pan­ies in the 2023 GlobeScan–Sustainability Lead­ers Sur­vey. All three have demon­strated pub­lic com­mit­ment to ambi­tious envir­on­ment­al goals, includ­ing sign­ing a 2021 pledge to decar­bon­ise ocean ship­ping by 2040. Our ana­lys­is examined over 250 pages of offi­cial com­pany com­mu­nic­a­tions to assess their stra­tegic and oper­a­tion­al messaging.

Patagonia: the embodiment champion

Patago­nia emerged as the clear lead­er in sus­tain­ab­il­ity embod­i­ment, with 64% of assessed actions deliv­er­ing mutu­al bene­fits to both soci­ety and busi­ness, while only 12% were clas­si­fied as anchored. This remark­able align­ment mani­fes­ted across all dimensions:

  • Sus­tain­ab­il­ity (42% embod­ied): From regen­er­at­ive organ­ic cot­ton sourcing to aggress­ive cli­mate advocacy, Patago­nia has made envir­on­ment­al stew­ard­ship insep­ar­able from brand identity.
  • Eco­sys­tem rela­tion­ships (77% embod­ied): The com­pany’s fair-trade part­ner­ships and sup­ply chain innov­a­tions cre­ate shared value with sup­pli­ers and communities.
  • Innov­a­tion (60% embod­ied): Product devel­op­ment con­sist­ently focuses on dur­ab­il­ity, repair­ab­il­ity, and regen­er­at­ive materials—features that reduce envir­on­ment­al impact while com­mand­ing premi­um pricing.

Patago­ni­a’s suc­cess stems from sev­er­al struc­tur­al advant­ages: its rel­at­ively focused product port­fo­lio, mis­sion-driv­en gov­ernance struc­ture, and cul­tiv­ated con­sumer base that val­ues envir­on­ment­al respons­ib­il­ity enough to pay premi­um prices. These con­di­tions enable the com­pany to avoid the tra­di­tion­al trade-offs between profit and purpose.

Unilever: navigating complexity at scale

Uni­lever achieved 48% over­all embod­i­ment, which is a respect­able per­form­ance giv­en the com­plex­ity of oper­at­ing across diverse mar­kets and product cat­egor­ies. The com­pany demon­strated bal­anced pro­gress across dimensions:

  • Sus­tain­ab­il­ity (34% embod­ied): Ini­ti­at­ives like halv­ing plastic pack­aging while main­tain­ing growth tar­gets exem­pli­fy the chal­len­ging bal­ance between envir­on­ment­al goals and busi­ness imperatives.
  • Eco­sys­tem rela­tion­ships (72% embod­ied): Extens­ive pub­lic-private part­ner­ships and com­munity devel­op­ment pro­grams cre­ate genu­ine shared value.
  • Innov­a­tion (50% embod­ied): New product devel­op­ment increas­ingly aligns con­sumer pref­er­ences with envir­on­ment­al bene­fits, though 38% of innov­a­tions remained anchored, reflect­ing ongo­ing ten­sion with share­hold­er expectations.

Uni­lever­’s exper­i­ence illus­trates the inher­ent chal­lenges facing large mul­tina­tion­als: diverse reg­u­lat­ory envir­on­ments, com­plex sup­ply chains, and het­ero­gen­eous con­sumer pref­er­ences make achiev­ing uni­form embod­i­ment sig­ni­fic­antly more dif­fi­cult than for spe­cial­ised com­pan­ies like Patagonia.

IKEA: ambition meets reality

IKEA scored 44% over­all embod­i­ment, with not­able vari­ations across dimen­sions that reveal the ten­sions with­in its busi­ness model:

  • Sus­tain­ab­il­ity (36% embod­ied): Cir­cu­lar design prin­ciples and renew­able energy invest­ments demon­strate pro­gress, but the com­pany’s high-volume, low-cost mod­el cre­ates struc­tur­al constraints.
  • Eco­sys­tem rela­tion­ships (60% embod­ied): Strong col­lab­or­at­ive sup­ply chain pro­jects, though 27% of rela­tion­ships primar­ily served IKEA’s oper­a­tion­al effi­ciency rather than mutu­al benefit.
  • Innov­a­tion (34% embod­ied): The low­est score among the three com­pan­ies, reflect­ing how mass-mar­ket pos­i­tion­ing can lim­it oppor­tun­it­ies for trans­form­at­ive product redesign.

IKEA’s res­ults high­light a crit­ic­al chal­lenge: even well-inten­tioned sus­tain­ab­il­ity ini­ti­at­ives can become “anchored” when con­strained by estab­lished busi­ness mod­els that pri­or­it­ise afford­ab­il­ity and scale over envir­on­ment­al optimization.

Implications and applications

The Sus­tain­ab­il­ity Mir­ror Frame­work reveals that cor­por­ate sus­tain­ab­il­ity exists on a spec­trum rather than as a bin­ary choice. Even lead­ing com­pan­ies demon­strate mixed pro­files, with vary­ing degrees of genu­ine integ­ra­tion versus stra­tegic positioning.

For cor­por­a­tions, the frame­work provides a dia­gnost­ic tool for identi­fy­ing oppor­tun­it­ies to expand embod­ied actions, those rare strategies where envir­on­ment­al and social bene­fits rein­force busi­ness suc­cess. This requires mov­ing bey­ond innov­a­tion labs and car­bon off­sets toward fun­da­ment­al busi­ness mod­el redesign that makes plan­et­ary health insep­ar­able from profit generation.

For poli­cy­makers, these insights can inform more soph­ist­ic­ated reg­u­lat­ory approaches that incentiv­ize embod­ied actions while recog­nising the struc­tur­al chal­lenges facing dif­fer­ent types of com­pan­ies. Rather than one-size-fits-all man­dates, policy could be tailored to com­pany char­ac­ter­ist­ics and mar­ket contexts.

For investors and con­sumers, it sharpens the abil­ity to dis­tin­guish between com­pan­ies whose sus­tain­ab­il­ity efforts are deeply integ­rated versus those whose ini­ti­at­ives, while genu­ine, remain peri­pher­al to core busi­ness strategy.

The path forward

The ulti­mate goal is not to achieve per­fect embod­i­ment, which is an unreal­ist­ic stand­ard. But rather to sys­tem­at­ic­ally expand the pro­por­tion of busi­ness activ­it­ies that cre­ate pos­it­ive-sum out­comes for soci­ety, envir­on­ment, and share­hold­ers. This requires acknow­ledging that sus­tain­ab­il­ity integ­ra­tion is not just a mat­ter of cor­por­ate will, but also of struc­tur­al con­di­tions includ­ing mar­ket dynam­ics, reg­u­lat­ory frame­works, and con­sumer preferences.

Com­pan­ies like Patago­nia demon­strate that high embod­i­ment is pos­sible under cer­tain con­di­tions, while Uni­lever and IKEA show both the poten­tial and chal­lenges of scal­ing sus­tain­able prac­tices across com­plex glob­al oper­a­tions. The key insight is that sus­tain­able busi­ness mod­els are not dis­covered through good inten­tions alone, but through delib­er­ate struc­tur­al changes that align profit incent­ives with plan­et­ary health.

The Sus­tain­ab­il­ity Mir­ror Frame­work offers a path bey­ond the polar­ised debate between profit and pur­pose, toward a more nuanced under­stand­ing of how com­pan­ies can genu­inely integ­rate sus­tain­ab­il­ity into their core oper­a­tions. In an era where cli­mate change demands urgent action, such dia­gnost­ic tools become essen­tial for dis­tin­guish­ing authen­t­ic trans­form­a­tion from soph­ist­ic­ated greenwashing.

For more info

Juin, C., Geor­get, V., & Rayna, T. (2025). Busi­ness Mod­el Innov­a­tion: a Frame­work for Assess­ing Cor­por­ate Engage­ment with Sus­tain­ab­il­ity. Cir­cu­lar Eco­nomy and Sus­tain­ab­il­ity, 1–23. https://doi.org/10.1007/s43615-025–00565‑9

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